Poncey apéro

It is a bit poncey, which normally isn't Monsieur Gourmand's or my cup of tea, but Chez Lucien's concept of "petite faim, bon vin" is just what Geneva's wine-loving after work crowd needs.

With an enviable outlook on the lake and the Jura (if you can crane your neck to see beyond the road and the boat-welding warehouse), the stools by the window are the best seats for settling in and enjoying an evening of wine and nibbles against an attractive backdrop of bare bricks and wall-mounted bottles.

We opted for a crisp Pinot Gris and munched on some grissini before perusing the "planchettes gourmandes" for something to share. We found the perfect partner for our wine in l'épicurien, an all-encompassing plate of verrines, including tapenade, goat's cheese mousse, salmon tartare and some suspiciously creamy pesto (because pesto isn't fattening enough already, Lucien).


Lighter options include smoked salmon assiette or Parma ham "drunk like a Venetian barber" (huh?) while rustic sandwiches and freshly chopped tartares fit the bill for a casual business lunch.


And for flashy folk with a sweet tooth, Chez Lucien has an extravagance not to be missed: a flute of champagne with a deadly dollop of tiramisù, panna cotta, or mousse.


Unsurprisingly, it's always full (of slick-haired, suit-wearing men and well-heeled ladies) so either book a table in advance or be ready to make the manager more amenable, perhaps with the flash of a fancy watch or the glint of a garish handbag.

 Chez Lucien, rue de la Scie 2, 1207 Geneva
+41 (0)22 311 4493; http://www.chezlucien.com

Food falling short

Making the most of an unseasonably warm evening, Monsieur Gourmand, a couple of friends and I strolled along rue du Rhône towards a cluster of bars and restaurants. We planned to enjoy dinner al fresco on the cobbled quayside, watching the lit-up logos of luxury brands reflecting off the water.

One place was prohibitively pricey, another too formal, and one – in an attempt to look Ibiza-like – had thrown dirty-looking towels all over their sofas. So we settled for the mellow lighting and faux-wicker furniture of Enoteca.  

Having chosen a Chilean wine, we ordered mixed antipasti of artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and a couple of tapenades. Moreish they may have been, but eating them proved a challenge as we only had one knife between us and the meagre bread basket contained just four sad-looking slices of stale baguette. Crusty, rustic loaves with olives or walnuts may have better suited the Mediterranean mood.

The bread wasn’t the only thing that seemed out of place; the middle-aged, oriental waitress was a sight to behold in a buckled leather jacket, floaty skirt and electric blue eye shadow, shuffling around in the kind of outdoorsy sandals you go rafting in and cackling maniacally when we asked for anything.

By the time our bread supply had been replenished, I had already started my main course. The chicken brochette seemed a bit genetically modified and nugget-like in texture, while the supposed massala sauce tasted too generic. Our friend’s chicken wings weren’t much better, but Monsieur Gourmand’s burger proved to be the highlight of an otherwise mediocre meal: a delicious and juicy feast of flavoursome beef, melted cheese, egg and bacon, served with chunky chips.

Notwithstanding this last tasty triumph, Enoteca should probably just stick to being a wine bar.

Enoteca, 19 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva

+41 (0)22 789 0189; winebargeneva.com