Dim sum search

Rarely does a Sunday night pass without Monsieur Gourmand craving some grilled pork dumplings and crispy shredded mystery meat (beef apparently, but I have my doubts). After London's dazzling array of Chinese restaurants - from local gems to internationally known hotspots - we were at first a little disappointed by Geneva's hideously expensive and decidedly ordinary offerings.

Since those early days, however, we have become accustomed to the lack of pak choi and the usual reliance on "5 épices" sauces and deep-fried "nems". But some are still better than others...


Unfairly ignored for months by Monsieur Gourmand and me because it was recommended by a rather smarmy acquaintance, Zhong Tong has become our most regularly visited Asian eatery (they also do Thai salads and Vietnamese hotpots). Not quite tucked away enough to escape the accordion players that offend our ears on hot summer nights, the rear terrace is charming nonetheless with a quirky picket fence entwined with plastic flowers.

Zhong Tong, Rue du Cendrier 10, Central; +41 (0)22 732 6868


If it wasn’t for the disappointingly small servings, Bamboo Garden would have many more regular visits from me and Monsieur Gourmand. As well as classic Chinese dishes, there is an emphasis on Korean cuisine, served in a warm atmosphere of bamboo-detailed décor.

Bamboo Garden, Passage Linck 4, Eaux-Vives
+41 (0)22 700 40 20; http://www.bamboo-garden.ch


Hung Wang benefits both from its picture postcard view and its steady flow of hotel guests from next door who are either too tired or lazy to look around. But they don’t rest on their laurels: the food is pleasingly MSG free and the décor is elegant and airy.

Hung Wang, Quai du Mont-Blanc 7, Mont Blanc; +41 (0)22 731 7330

Apart from a few flourishes of creativity - exotic birds carved out of carrots, a not unimpressive fish tank and a Mexican wrestling mask motif - Chez Kei is unremarkable. But that hasn't quelled its popularity with the old-fashioned well-to-do Genevois who have been feasting on duck and dumplings here for decades.

Chez Kei, Route de Malagnou 6, Malagnou; +41 (0)22 346 4789

The chunky Chinese man in the filthy-looking kitchen appears to be the owner of Lin Xiang, helped out by his severe-looking wife and greasy-haired daughters (a sure turn-off in any eating establishment). While I can't help focussing on the sticky surroundings, Monsieur Gourmand keeps coming back for the duck feast (pancakes with plum sauce followed by non-descript saucy duck with rice).

Lin Xiang, Rue du Prince 8, Rive; +41 (0)22 311 3330

Poncey apéro

It is a bit poncey, which normally isn't Monsieur Gourmand's or my cup of tea, but Chez Lucien's concept of "petite faim, bon vin" is just what Geneva's wine-loving after work crowd needs.

With an enviable outlook on the lake and the Jura (if you can crane your neck to see beyond the road and the boat-welding warehouse), the stools by the window are the best seats for settling in and enjoying an evening of wine and nibbles against an attractive backdrop of bare bricks and wall-mounted bottles.

We opted for a crisp Pinot Gris and munched on some grissini before perusing the "planchettes gourmandes" for something to share. We found the perfect partner for our wine in l'épicurien, an all-encompassing plate of verrines, including tapenade, goat's cheese mousse, salmon tartare and some suspiciously creamy pesto (because pesto isn't fattening enough already, Lucien).


Lighter options include smoked salmon assiette or Parma ham "drunk like a Venetian barber" (huh?) while rustic sandwiches and freshly chopped tartares fit the bill for a casual business lunch.


And for flashy folk with a sweet tooth, Chez Lucien has an extravagance not to be missed: a flute of champagne with a deadly dollop of tiramisù, panna cotta, or mousse.


Unsurprisingly, it's always full (of slick-haired, suit-wearing men and well-heeled ladies) so either book a table in advance or be ready to make the manager more amenable, perhaps with the flash of a fancy watch or the glint of a garish handbag.

 Chez Lucien, rue de la Scie 2, 1207 Geneva
+41 (0)22 311 4493; http://www.chezlucien.com

Ladies' bite

Geneva is surrounded by scenic beauty, well placed for European road trips and French-speaking, all of which (in my view) make it more attractive than Switzerland’s other significant city. That said, one night up north is all it takes to realise that Zurich is much more hip.

While Geneva is crawling with stuffy bankers and 6ft hookers, Zurich is populated by sexy sophisticates and relaxed arty types mingling among the cool cafés and vintage shops. Even the taxi drivers are more cosmopolitan, driving like maniacs and shouting obscenities at cyclists. 

My California-dwelling friend and I found a fresh and funky design hotel (http://www.greulich.ch), complete with renowned restaurant, rugs for when you get chilly outside, and a cigar room. Nevertheless, we fancied a flavour of the city, so took ourselves off to La Salle where we were thrilled to find high ceilings befitting a former factory and windows criss-crossed with chunky steel beams, all set within a cool complex in an up-and-coming part of town.

After hanging our coats on the self-service rack at the restaurant entrance (how nice not to faff around with cloakroom tokens) we were given a big table and presented with the menu in German, French and English.
 
We both started with octopus – which really should have been served as a simple carpaccio without the slimy savoury jelly – topped with tasty, tangy tomatoes. Despite the best efforts of the flirty front of house host to make us eat horse (I know it’s tasty but we both happen to like horses), my friend went for a delicious looking entrecôte of lamb while I ordered liver. The texture was perhaps a little too liver-like, bordering on the undercooked, but the deep red, umami-influenced sauce was delightful.

Our Mediterranean maître d’ then tried to foist upon us some fiendishly fattening fare for dessert, but we stayed strong and shared a deliciously smooth crema catalana.

We did, however, take his third piece of advice: we hotfooted it upstairs to the bar where we enjoyed an excellent evening of good conversation and Campari.

La Salle, Schiffbaustrasse 4, CH-8005 Zürich
+41 (0)44 258 7071; http://www.lasalle-restaurant.ch

Pricey prawns

As anyone who has been in Switzerland for any length of time will know, businesses here don’t exactly fight tooth and nail to obtain, or retain, your custom.

A friend who tried recently to make a booking at Miyako was surprised to be asked over the phone what she would be eating, to which she surmised that she might want sushi and her husband would probably fancy something sizzling from the Teppanyaki table. In that case, she was told, she had better go somewhere else (the presence of non-Teppanyaki eaters is not appreciated around the hallowed hotplate).

 

Luckily Monsieur Gourmand and I were in a decisive mood when we visited so we knew we wouldn’t fall foul of this petty policy.

Our Teppanyaki chef did a fine job of slicing and dicing, although touristy types might have been disappointed that he didn’t make a grand spectacle of his work, with knives, flames and food flying through the air.

I was surprised to hear Monsieur Gourmand order prawns (he considers them the cockroaches of the sea), but he struck gold with these fresh and juicy crustaceans, which stoked our appetites nicely for the meaty main.

Served with a side of miso soup and not-so-healthy egg fried rice, I savoured every mouthful of my perfectly rare, fat-free fillet steak. It was so tender and tasty that I could have eaten more, but it was refreshing not to feel overly stuffed, as is so often the way with European steaks slathered in buttery sauces.

With superior ingredients and skilled chefs, Miyako managed to redeem itself from my preconceived opinion (albeit with an outrageous bill). Just make sure you eat the same as whoever you’re with, or else one of you might end up stranded at the sushi bar.

Miyako, 11 rue de Chantepoulet, Geneva
+41 (0)22 738 0120; http://www.miyako.ch

Far East of Eden

Much as I like going to Chamonix, driving there is a bit nervy. It was on this very journey that Monsieur Gourmand and I slammed into a crash barrier before sliding into a stationary car (helpfully stopped in the middle of a snowy road, just around a bend) one December day in 2008. After an hour on edge recalling this scary scenario, it's quite a relief to see the Hotel Eden emerge from the darkness, a shimmering beacon of warmth, bedecked by fairy lights.

While the rooms are functional and pleasantly presented, it is the food for which Hotel Eden is better known. After perusing the menu in front of the fire in the bar with a glass or two of champagne, the conservatory dining room awaits where the walls display the resident photographer's latest Alpine-themed exhibition.

The menu is essentially French - think steak, lamb and sea bass fillets - but many dishes are spiced up with an Asian twist that captures the famed umami essence of oriental cooking. The St Jacques I had on my last visit were livened up by a tasty Teriyaki sauce that complemented the succulent scallops, while Monsieur Gourmand had goat's cheese samosa, the heaviness of the cheese eased by sweet beetroot and a zingy apple salad.

Since my last Eden experience I have resolved to order future steaks seignant rather than bleu as it was a little too rare for my liking on this occasion, but the quality of the meat couldn't be faulted. It's always best to stick to what a place does best and, judging by the number of eastern options, my note-to-self for next time is to go for something with soy, spices or sesame.

A couple of bottles of wine later, the bar beckons where skiers from Finland, Ukraine, and of course the UK, congregate for cognacs and limoncellos late into the night.

Hotel Eden Chamonix, 35 route des Gaudenays,
74400 Les Praz de Chamonix, France
+33 (0)450 531843; http://www.hoteleden-chamonix.com

Talking fop

The dense fog didn't hold us back from attacking black runs with abandon, but not being able to see is a bit tricky when you're skiing somewhere new. Luckily for Monsieur Gourmand and me, it was clearer lower down, clear enough to spot from the chairlift Les Vieilles Luges tucked away amid the trees.

After negotiating the narrow access path from the piste we didn't have much hope of a table, judging by the amount of skis leaning against the outside wall of the charming wooden shack. But the manager squeezed us in amid the antlers, antique kitchenware and toboggans (to which the restaurant's name refers).

We were unlucky to be seated next to a pompous Englishman who was flashing his i-phone about while waiting for his (very late) date to turn up. When his ladyfriend arrived, he proceeded to drone on about how clever and successful he was (despite losing most of his business recently, which had been a "total nightmare") and she turned down the offer of some wine "because she was skiing".

Since when did that stop anyone?

The menu is written rustic-style on a blackboard and stays true to local tradition with an emphasis on hearty pies and casseroles. My reblochon and leek crumble was not as heavy as I feared and I now have a renewed liking for leeks, a vegetable which I had rather forgotten about. Monsieur Gourmand had two fat and flavoursome sausages, accompanied by a slice of the restaurant's speciality, farçon, a flower-pot shaped, solidified chunk of cheese, potatoes, prunes and lardons.

He was quite stuffed after that, allowing me the lion's share of our tarte aux myrtilles, which was full of fruit and not too pastry-heavy.

We beat a hasty retreat to the still foggy slopes as Ms Sensible on the next table looked increasingly bored by Mr Ego's neverending monologue. Surely getting tipsy and skiing off a cliff after a glass or two of wine would have been a risk worth taking?

Les Vieilles Luges, above Maison Neuve piste, Les Houches, France
+33 (0)684 423700; http://www.lesvieillesluges.com

Holy roast

The closest I have ever got to meditating was when I tried to cure my phobia of snakes through "deep relaxation". It didn't work, partly because of the noisy London traffic outside and partly because of my own scepticism.

But the Buddhist monks of the Shedrub Choekhor Ling centre seem to have the right idea: a tranquil temple atop the Salève with amazing views over Geneva, the Jura and Lac Léman.

Recently discovered by Monsieur Gourmand and me while on a Saturday spin around the winding roads, the temple shares a building with Restaurant Table d'Orientation where we stopped for a bite to eat. We didn't expect much (the name is hopelessly unsnappy and most of the clientele seemed to be ramblers) but we were in for a nice surprise.

Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the dizzying views, while the dark wood floors and tables would create a warm atmosphere in even the wildest weather. And the menu is limited to just a few salads and meat dishes, a sure sign that the chef takes pride in his culinary creations and uses fresh ingredients.

After some warm and crusty, freshly baked bread (with olive oil, salt AND butter) my salade "fitness" arrived: an abundant pile of green leaves, asparagus, pumpkin seeds, cherry tomatoes and dreamy soft-poached eggs, surrounded by six standing conical carrots.

But Monsieur Gourmand's meal would take some beating. Not usually a great poultry lover, he raved about the crispy roasted chicken breasts with every tender mouthful, and savoured the bed of bolet mushrooms and hearty home-made pasta sheets that made up this pleasing plat du jour. I thought I would be doing him a favour by offering to relieve him of his Brussels sprouts but they were so firm and flavoursome that he only allowed me one meagre bite.

Maybe the monks don't have it so good after all; the aromas that waft around this building must drive them wild with temptation (I think carnivorous indulgences are frowned upon in Buddhism). That wouldn't preclude them from trying the tarte aux pommes though, which looked heavenly.

7660 Route des Trois Lacs, 74560 Monnetier-Mornex, Mont Salève
+33 (0)450 350545

http://www.shedrubchoekhorling.blogspot.com/