Monsieur Gourmand is still a bit fernickety about fish (the bony, head-still-attached variety anyway). Even so, to celebrate a special occasion, he wasn't averse to trying Café du Centre, Geneva's terribly touristy yet highly regarded seafood specialist.
The dazzling display in the window is always a sight to behold: meaty monkfish, rays, oysters, mussels and scallops, draped over ice and usually arranged around a lobster centrepiece. Inside, it is old-fashioned French through and through with mirrored walls, tiled floors, woody banquettes and mature waiters well turned out in white shirts and aprons.
After a glass of champagne and a shared carpaccio starter, I delved into my "marmite du pecheur". Satisfyingly strong, hot and hearty, this soupy seafood concoction was brimming with chunks of scallop, prawn, seabass, cod and shellfish. I can just imagine beardy French fishermen wolfing down a similar meal before a night on the ocean waves.
Monsieur Gourmand stayed faithful to our location with fresh-from-the-lake filets de perches meunière. We've found perches in these parts to be hit and miss, but these good-sized morsels were excellent: not too greasy and accompanied by skinny chips, a tangy tartare sauce and some spinach.
Café du Centre is a classic Geneva institution in every way but one: they actually serve all day. So while the tourists are still traipsing around museums and before the accordion-playing cacophonists descend on Place du Molard for the evening, try it for an afternoon bite.
Café du Centre, 5 Place du Molard, 1204 Geneva
+41 (0)22 311 8586; www.cafeducentre.ch
The dazzling display in the window is always a sight to behold: meaty monkfish, rays, oysters, mussels and scallops, draped over ice and usually arranged around a lobster centrepiece. Inside, it is old-fashioned French through and through with mirrored walls, tiled floors, woody banquettes and mature waiters well turned out in white shirts and aprons.
After a glass of champagne and a shared carpaccio starter, I delved into my "marmite du pecheur". Satisfyingly strong, hot and hearty, this soupy seafood concoction was brimming with chunks of scallop, prawn, seabass, cod and shellfish. I can just imagine beardy French fishermen wolfing down a similar meal before a night on the ocean waves. Monsieur Gourmand stayed faithful to our location with fresh-from-the-lake filets de perches meunière. We've found perches in these parts to be hit and miss, but these good-sized morsels were excellent: not too greasy and accompanied by skinny chips, a tangy tartare sauce and some spinach.
Café du Centre is a classic Geneva institution in every way but one: they actually serve all day. So while the tourists are still traipsing around museums and before the accordion-playing cacophonists descend on Place du Molard for the evening, try it for an afternoon bite.
Café du Centre, 5 Place du Molard, 1204 Geneva
+41 (0)22 311 8586; www.cafeducentre.ch
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