Stuffed in the city

There’s a lot to be said for living in the country: a detached house, a view of Mont Blanc, a garden with enough space for ping pong and parties, off-street parking for two cars – two cars that are in their element on the nearby twisty roads. Life isn't bad.

But once in a while Monsieur Gourmand and I miss the meals out we used to have before moving out of town.

One of our local restaurants in those days, L’Esquisse, recently beckoned us back with the promise of good food, unfussily served on its summertime pavement terrace.

Perusing the menu with a glass of rosé, I quickly made up my mind while Monsieur Gourmand asked about the specials. Of course, “specials” aren’t so much special as what the restaurant needs to sell so, while the waitress made the veal shepherd’s pie-style main sound marvellous, it turned out to be way too hearty for the summer heat.

Unsurprisingly, Monsieur Gourmand was stuffed, despite his comparatively light carpaccio starter.

I started with coeur de boeuf tomatoes (for those not in the know, these are the biggest, tastiest tomatoes you can find away from the Med) with pesto and burrata (the creamiest, most fiendish form of mozzarella known to man) before devouring two fillets of fresh, fleshy bream.

After a cooling raspberry sorbet and an irresistible home-made meringue with whipped cream and berries, we made our way through Eaux-Vives, along to the lake and back to the car.

Maybe it’s time to revisit some other old haunts? 

L’Esquisse, rue du Lac 7, 1207 Genève

+41 (0)22 786 5044; www.lesquisse.com

 

 

Trusty bistrot

It's the second time I've been to L'Esquisse and it's the second time I can't think of anything to write about it. Not because it was bad, quite the opposite in fact. It's very good. Not rapture-rousingly, astoundingly good, but a reliable neighbourhood bistrot serving tasty French cuisine against a backdrop of funky artwork.

Again we were seated in the lower half of the restaurant by the drafty door (note to self: request a table at the other end next time) before a fast-talking Frenchman guided us through the blackboard of wines. Of course he subtly suggested some of the pricier vintages, but we found the restaurant's own label house red was more than a match for our main course. 

This second visit failed to trump the first when I had a juicy veal burger (they also do beef, chicken and tuna), but it did involve another hunk of tender meat: a chunky côte de boeuf served on a wooden slab with a sharp knife protruding from within. Rare and tasty, there was little need for the sauce on the side, while chips might have been preferable to the unmemorable potatoes. I can't quite remember if they were dauphinoise. If so, I've had better.

In anticipation of the substantial main course, I had chosen a dainty salade verte to start, which was excellent: firm and fresh with an addictively aromatic walnut dressing. Monsieur Gourmand wasn't so complimentary about his (inexplicably orange) courgette soup which was, unsurprisingly, rather bland.

As we walked home, satisfied yet unexcited by our dinner, I resolved to shake things up a bit next time. Maybe I'll try some fish. 

7 rue du Lac, 1207 Geneva
+41 (0)22 786 5044; lesquisse.com