Flavoursome feast

As our dessert arrived at Le 3 Rive Gauche, Monsieur Gourmand declared himself to be utterly replete with meat and unable to consume another thing. However, after sampling the minty ‘broth’ of mandarin and orange with sweet mint sorbet, he did concede that it was indeed a refreshing and aromatic end to a fantastic feast of flavours that had included foie gras, truffle, cider and sausage.

Enhanced by the unmistakeable whiff of black truffle, Monsieur Gourmand’s steak tartare starter was so exquisite that he was rapturously wishing it didn’t have to end. My foie gras was similarly sensational, cut into a neat oblong with a strip of duck meat in the middle and accompanied by a crisp green salad with hazelnut dressing.

Peering over at the next table’s beef – when the presentation is this good, diners can’t help but be fascinated by other people’s plates – we wondered if we should have ordered the côte de boeuf; our fears were soon allayed when we saw my scallops Saint-Jacques neatly perched atop clumps of green basil risotto, surrounded by a cider and beetroot sauce. The scallops were of course scrumptious, although for 42 francs I might have expected more than four.

Monsieur Gourmand declined my offer to try one because his palate, still in truffle tartare ecstasy, was so overwhelmed by the robust flavour of his smoky Vaudois sausage. Not to mention the accompanying green lentils, livened up with fiendish foie gras.

Other than Le 3 Rive Gauche’s location in the heart of the Old Town and the building's century-long history – proudly detailed on the website – there is nothing old fashioned about this deservedly popular restaurant. The service is slick, the décor is de rigueur with funky glassware and chunky cutlery, and I particularly like the option of half-size starter portions for more modest appetites.

Most importantly, however, the delectable and daring menu is a tasty triumph that has made a lasting impression on me and Monsieur Gourmand.

Le 3 Rive Gauche, Grand Rue 3, Geneva 1204; 022 810 2929
http://www.le3rg.com/

Burger betrayal

Crans-Montana is normally known for glorious sunshine, glamorous après-skiers and breathtaking views, so you can imagine the disappointment of arriving to find sparkling sun-drenched slopes replaced by freezing fog and a heavy, snow-filled sky. Skiing conditions would surely be treacherous with such poor visibility so Monsieur Gourmand, our two friends and I admitted defeat and settled in for a long lunch instead.

The only establishment prepared to serve food after 2pm was Senso Alto, a recently refurbished restaurant and bar in the heart of Montana that offers a pleasant mix of modern décor and traditional alpine cosiness. Sumptuous fireside armchairs would be ideal for sitting back with a wedge of cake and a cup of tea, while square, chunky tables make the perfect platform for enjoying a hearty mountain meal.

Chilled to the bone after our snowy search for an amenable eatery, we wasted no time in ordering our first bottle of Pinot noir. This was enjoyed with a plate of viandes sechées which, though tasty, might benefit from a few more cornichons and fresher bread (I suspect the once luxurious loaf had graced several bread baskets by this late hour).

Feeling rather doughy myself after the Christmas holidays, I opted for a relatively light chèvre salad. It was a little on the small side but delicious nonetheless – the melted goat’s cheese oozed over the bread croutons onto a bed of subtly dressed green leaves scattered with pine kernels.

While one of our group enjoyed a thick and nutritious minestrone soup, Monsieur Gourmand and our other friend both chose burgers – or so we thought.

Monsieur Gourmand’s looked a little meagre but at least it contained some meat, unlike the tartiflette ‘burger’ which took us all by surprise when it turned out to be just tartiflette. In a bun. Was it wrong to expect a burger to contain, well, a burger? Or, in Senso Alto speak, is a cheese burger another name for a cheese sandwich? Would they call a bean-filled bun a veggie burger?

Two bottles of Pinot noir later this menu misdescription was long forgotten. As day turned to night we left feeling warm and reasonably well fed, looking forward to the following day when, thankfully, Crans-Montana’s celebrated sunshine returned.

Senso Alto, Avenue de la Gare 2, 3963 Crans-Montana