Wednesday 27 February 2013

Pre-adventure pizza

I've always said that if I were a condemned woman pizza would be my last meal (or at least part of it because I would probably fancy a juicy steak for good measure and maybe a crème brûlée to top things off).

So it was fitting that the night before venturing down the Vallée Blanche - or, more importantly, scaling the height of 3800 m on the Aiguille du Midi cable car - pizza should be my sustenance.

Monsieur Gourmand and I, with two of our more adventurous friends, stumbled into Neapolis from the icy outdoors, not fancying a long search for food. We were told it would be a 20-minute wait but we could tell it would be good - the ground floor and the upper balcony bit looked warm and cosy, heaving with sophisticated-looking ski types. So we settled in at the bar with a carafe of plonk and some focaccia and tried not to think about the famous "walk of death" leading from the cable car to the beginning of tomorrow's mythical mountain itinerary. 

No time for faffing with starters, we went straight to the main course. Tania had spaghetti bolognese, which was doubtless far better than most of the Chamonix Brits are used to, while the other three of us tried the delicious Neapolitan pizzas, all topped with the freshest ingredients and the bases nicely charred around the edge.

Of course, there's more to Italian cuisine than pizza but ice cream isn't usually the first thing that springs to mind in the mountains. These ones though were outstanding, I might even say the best I've ever had. The 90% dark chocolate flavour was beyond chocolatey with big chunky bits, while the mint choc chip was refreshing after our cheesy mains.

Well, it turned out not to be the last supper after all (the ridge walk was nothing short of terrifying, the skiing magnificent) but this would have been a more than satisfying last meal on earth had I fallen to my death.

Neapolis, 79 Galerie Alpina, 74400 Chamonix, France
+33 (0)450 53 98 41
 

Tuesday 12 February 2013

Soggy veg

There's a lot to be said for cheap and cheerful pizzerias. But cheap is hard to find in this neck of the woods and cheerful isn't something that springs to mind in most Romande restaurants.
 
At least La Puccia gets full marks for trying. The food is cheaper than poncier pizza places, the owner is amiable indeed and the atmosphere could even be called buzzy. And pizza is not the limit - Italian classics such as Saltimbocca and Veal a la Milanese are always worth a bite and there's an inviting array of pastas. 
 
In an effort to shed some Christmas kilos, I was avoiding a carb-fest on our last visit in favour of vegetables, something that any chef worth his white hat should be able to cook. Alas, not so here - my veggies were soggy and salty rather than crunchy and croquant. A shame really because everything else was fine, particularly our friend's cheesy gnocchi.
 
Don't expect creative cuisine or edible vegetables but a couple of carafes of wine and passable pizza are enough to make La Puccia a reliable choice to kick off a night on the Nyon tiles.
 
La Puccia, Grande Rue 5-7, 1260 Nyon
+ 41 (0)22 361 2020; www.lapuccia.ch