Monday 2 July 2012

Medieval meat

Like a hairdresser with a wonky haircut, surely it speaks volumes about a restaurant's food when the staff are super skinny? Not so in the case of Restaurant du Moulin, where it seems to have more to do with the whippet-thin waitress in question being run off her feet all day long (yes, it's open all day) carrying plates of amazing meaty feasts.

Another misconception is the curious "botato". I'm sure many an English-speaking customer has left thinking this is a Swiss misspelling of the spud when in fact it's a hearty local sausage, which can be enjoyed hot or cold, as a starter or main.

The menu offers juicy steaks, racks of lamb and rognons de veau (love or hate the latter), but adventurous eaters should try a more dramatic dish. Resembling a medieval torture device, the ominously named "potence" (gallows) consists of chunks of beef mounted on spikes protruding from a hanging iron ball, which are then flambéed in cognac at the table. There are five sauces to be sampled on the side and the boozy juices don't go to waste either, dripping onto a generous bowl of new potatoes.

The cosy cave-like interior and valley setting, complete with roaring river, only encourage meat-eating and wine-guzzling galore. You might as well go the whole hog and have the presumptuously named "unavoidable" chocolate fondant.  

Restaurant du Moulin, 2 rue de la Cézille, 1268 Begnins
+41 (0)22 366 1168; www.cezille.ch