Monday 2 December 2013

Hand Awash

British children in the 1980s were forever being told to "think of the Ethiopians", i.e. eat everything on your plate with not a morsel going to waste. I'm not sure that my overeating - or, for that matter, being strong-armed into giving away one of my furry friends (stuffed animals) for charity - really helped the starving children, but it certainly made me aware of their plight. 
 
As a country associated with starvation, Ethiopia isn't known so well for its food. But our recent feast at Awash proves that Ethiopian food and the abundance of it is indeed something to celebrate!  
 
Having ordered the tasting menu (neither of us had ever eaten Ethiopian before) we were soon presented with some excellent samosas. Crispy on the outside, they were spiced to perfection with a delicious dipping sauce on the side and, importantly, easy to eat with your hands (no knives and forks here).  

The main dish that followed was a bit more tricky. Neat piles of traditional stewed meats and vegetables were presented on a big round injera, a type of sourdough flatbread. The idea is to pick up pieces of food in the bread but it's not as easy as it sounds.
 
For one thing, you're only supposed to use your right hand (we didn't ask why) and, secondly, the spongy porous texture means it doesn't roll up as neatly as a tortilla, so you inevitably end up with meat-scented fingers. 

We dutifully devoured everything on the platter (old habits die hard) while enjoying the desert-themed décor of low tables, cushion-strewn banquettes and pictures of mysterious-looking robed horsemen. And to quash the famine fixation once and for all, on Friday nights Awash becomes a sort of cultural centre with live music and dancing added to the menu. 

Awash, Rue du Valais 9, 1202 Geneva
+41 (0)22 738 7298; www.awash.ch