Geneva has more than its fair share of boring bankers, NGOs and horologists. But it also has cheese and chocolate in abundance and an array of restaurants serving up tasty treats from all over the world. Alpine eater Laura discovers the culinary heart of Geneva and the surrounding Savoie region.
Much as I like going to Chamonix, driving there is a bit nervy. It was on this very journey that Monsieur Gourmand and I slammed into a crash barrier before sliding into a stationary car (helpfully stopped in the middle of a snowy road, just around a bend) one December day in 2008. After an hour on edge recalling this scary scenario, it's quite a relief to see the Hotel Eden emerge from the darkness, a shimmering beacon of warmth, bedecked by fairy lights. While the rooms are functional and pleasantly presented, it is the food for which Hotel Eden is better known. After perusing the menu in front of the fire in the bar with a glass or two of champagne, the conservatory dining room awaits where the walls display the resident photographer's latest Alpine-themed exhibition.
The menu is essentially French - think steak, lamb and sea bass fillets - but many dishes are spiced up with an Asian twist that captures the famed umami essence of oriental cooking. The St Jacques I had on my last visit were livened up by a tasty Teriyaki sauce that complemented the succulent scallops, while Monsieur Gourmand had goat's cheese samosa, the heaviness of the cheese eased by sweet beetroot and a zingy apple salad.
Since my last Eden experience I have resolved to order future steaks seignant rather than bleu as it was a little too rare for my liking on this occasion, but the quality of the meat couldn't be faulted. It's always best to stick to what a place does best and, judging by the number of eastern options, my note-to-self for next time is to go for something with soy, spices or sesame.
A couple of bottles of wine later, the bar beckons where skiers from Finland, Ukraine, and of course the UK, congregate for cognacs and limoncellos late into the night.
Hotel Eden Chamonix, 35 route des Gaudenays,
74400 Les Praz de Chamonix, France +33 (0)450 531843; http://www.hoteleden-chamonix.com
The dense fog didn't hold us back from attacking black runs with abandon, but not being able to see is a bit tricky when you're skiing somewhere new. Luckily for Monsieur Gourmand and me, it was clearer lower down, clear enough to spot from the chairlift Les Vieilles Luges tucked away amid the trees.
After negotiating the narrow access path from the piste we didn't have much hope of a table, judging by the amount of skis leaning against the outside wall of the charming wooden shack. But the manager squeezed us in amid the antlers, antique kitchenware and toboggans (to which the restaurant's name refers).
We were unlucky to be seated next to a pompous Englishman who was flashing his i-phone about while waiting for his (very late) date to turn up. When his ladyfriend arrived, he proceeded to drone on about how clever and successful he was (despite losing most of his business recently, which had been a "total nightmare") and she turned down the offer of some wine "because she was skiing".
Since when did that stop anyone?
The menu is written rustic-style on a blackboard and stays true to local tradition with an emphasis on hearty pies and casseroles. My reblochon and leek crumble was not as heavy as I feared and I now have a renewed liking for leeks, a vegetable which I had rather forgotten about. Monsieur Gourmand had two fat and flavoursome sausages, accompanied by a slice of the restaurant's speciality, farçon, a flower-pot shaped, solidified chunk of cheese, potatoes, prunes and lardons.
He was quite stuffed after that, allowing me the lion's share of our tarte aux myrtilles, which was full of fruit and not too pastry-heavy.
We beat a hasty retreat to the still foggy slopes as Ms Sensible on the next table looked increasingly bored by Mr Ego's neverending monologue. Surely getting tipsy and skiing off a cliff after a glass or two of wine would have been a risk worth taking?
The closest I have ever got to meditating was when I tried to cure my phobia of snakes through "deep relaxation". It didn't work, partly because of the noisy London traffic outside and partly because of my own scepticism.
But the Buddhist monks of the Shedrub Choekhor Ling centre seem to have the right idea: a tranquil temple atop the Salève with amazing views over Geneva, the Jura and Lac Léman.
Recently discovered by Monsieur Gourmand and me while on a Saturday spin around the winding roads, the temple shares a building with Restaurant Table d'Orientation where we stopped for a bite to eat. We didn't expect much (the name is hopelessly unsnappy and most of the clientele seemed to be ramblers) but we were in for a nice surprise.
Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the dizzying views, while the dark wood floors and tables would create a warm atmosphere in even the wildest weather. And the menu is limited to just a few salads and meat dishes, a sure sign that the chef takes pride in his culinary creations and uses fresh ingredients.
After some warm and crusty, freshly baked bread (with olive oil, salt AND butter) my salade "fitness" arrived: an abundant pile of green leaves, asparagus, pumpkin seeds, cherry tomatoes and dreamy soft-poached eggs, surrounded by six standing conical carrots.
But Monsieur Gourmand's meal would take some beating. Not usually a great poultry lover, he raved about the crispy roasted chicken breasts with every tender mouthful, and savoured the bed of bolet mushrooms and hearty home-made pasta sheets that made up this pleasing plat du jour. I thought I would be doing him a favour by offering to relieve him of his Brussels sprouts but they were so firm and flavoursome that he only allowed me one meagre bite.
Maybe the monks don't have it so good after all; the aromas that waft around this building must drive them wild with temptation (I think carnivorous indulgences are frowned upon in Buddhism). That wouldn't preclude them from trying the tarte aux pommes though, which looked heavenly.
7660 Route des Trois Lacs, 74560 Monnetier-Mornex, Mont Salève +33 (0)450 350545
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