Plane tasty

The older I get, the more mortal I feel; I have even started feeling nervous when flying. Milling around Heathrow the other evening, I was relieved not to be boarding the flight to Auckland – which doesn’t bode well when Monsieur Gourmand and I have our hearts set on honeymooning in Bora Bora.

Such aviation anxiety is quite unexpected for someone who has always enjoyed taking to the air, whether by jumbo or gyrocopter (okay, the second one isn’t entirely true but I have been known to jump out of small planes and soar through the skies in a glider).

Perhaps my passion for planes is why I like Le Thermomètre, an unpretentious eatery in the centre of Geneva, whose decked outdoor area looks onto the window of a model shop selling everything from remote control Cessnas and Spitfires to scale model 747s and A380s. And if planes don’t float your boat, there are plenty of yachts, cars and trains to distract you from the discomfort of the plasticky chairs while you wait to be served.

Talking of trains, the restaurant’s long, narrow interior reminds me of a railway restaurant carriage, only without the Swiss mountain scenery and with the addition of over-attentive staff. Unless it’s pouring with rain or icy cold, I would stay outside.

We started by sharing some smooth and flavoursome foie gras, served with dainty toasts and a soupçon of sweet sauce on the side. This was just enough decadence to awaken my appetite for what was to follow – a deliciously rare and tender steak.

Monsieur Gourmand strayed from the menu’s mainstays of steak and perches du lac and instead went for thin slices of beef with a herby, garlicky sauce. Despite the thinness of the slices, the meat remained rare, while the sensational sauce was tangy but not overpowering. Both dishes came with Le Thermomètre’s must-have matchstick frites, and of course we quaffed a carafe of local red wine.

I can’t think of anywhere better for a bit of unpretentious mid-week eating with some people watching and plane spotting thrown in. Just be sure to sit outside.

 Le Thermomètre, 22 rue Neuve du Molard, 1204 Genève
+41 (0)22 310 2535

Sweet surrender

While I disapprove of stingy establishments that charge for petits fours, the fabulous Rasoi goes to the other extreme. After an otherwise exquisite and surprisingly light meal, I completely overdosed on dessert: an entire mango kulfi – the best I’ve ever tasted – pistachio crème brûlée and melon. (These were served as one dish, in case anyone is thinking I’m a complete glutton.)

As a result, I felt utterly stuffed and very grateful for the walk home. 

We happened to visit during a promotional evening for a local kaftan and sarong seller, but it would take more than a succession of slinky models in floaty frocks to distract me – if not Monsieur Gourmand – from the show stopping degustation menu.

A duo of home-made chutneys and dainty poppadoms were enjoyed with an apéritif before some subtly spicy and herby naan bread arrived. A chilled lentil and tomato soup ensued, before two volaille kebabs – one full flavoured and tangy, the other much milder – were served with a salad of modish micro leaves.


As I savoured the red, orange and green cuisine, the main course of Masala cod and saffron mash brought on the first feelings of fullness. It was delicious nonetheless, the moist, meaty flakes complemented by fresh and firm peas and asparagus.


On this occasion I was weak-willed when faced with delicious-looking creamy kulfi, and powerless to resist the heavenly convergence of pistachio and crème brûlée, (two of my favourite things). If I can stomach the prohibitive prices for a future visit, I vow to allow the sensational savoury flavours to linger longer.


Rasoi, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Quai Turrettini, 1201 Genève
+41 (0)22 909 0006 www.rasoi.ch