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As our dessert arrived at Le 3 Rive Gauche, Monsieur Gourmand declared himself to be utterly replete with meat and unable to consume another thing. However, after sampling the minty ‘broth’ of mandarin and orange with sweet mint sorbet, he did concede that it was indeed a refreshing and aromatic end to a fantastic feast of flavours that had included foie gras, truffle, cider and sausage.
Enhanced by the unmistakeable whiff of black truffle, Monsieur Gourmand’s steak tartare starter was so exquisite that he was rapturously wishing it didn’t have to end. My foie gras was similarly sensational, cut into a neat oblong with a strip of duck meat in the middle and accompanied by a crisp green salad with hazelnut dressing.
Peering over at the next table’s beef – when the presentation is this good, diners can’t help but be fascinated by other people’s plates – we wondered if we should have ordered the côte de boeuf; our fears were soon allayed when we saw my scallops Saint-Jacques neatly perched atop clumps of green basil risotto, surrounded by a cider and beetroot sauce. The scallops were of course scrumptious, although for 42 francs I might have expected more than four.
Monsieur Gourmand declined my offer to try one because his palate, still in truffle tartare ecstasy, was so overwhelmed by the robust flavour of his smoky Vaudois sausage. Not to mention the accompanying green lentils, livened up with fiendish foie gras.
Other than Le 3 Rive Gauche’s location in the heart of the Old Town and the building's century-long history – proudly detailed on the website – there is nothing old fashioned about this deservedly popular restaurant. The service is slick, the décor is de rigueur with funky glassware and chunky cutlery, and I particularly like the option of half-size starter portions for more modest appetites.
Most importantly, however, the delectable and daring menu is a tasty triumph that has made a lasting impression on me and Monsieur Gourmand.
Le 3 Rive Gauche, Grand Rue 3, Geneva 1204; 022 810 2929
http://www.le3rg.com/
I could focus on the failings of L’Armoire – dull décor, snooty clientele and of course slow service – but such trivialities can be overlooked when the food is this fabulous.
The restaurant’s design is hardly cutting edge with blackboards, library-style lampshades, dark wood and burgundy banquettes, however it does bring to mind warmth, comfort and red meat, which is just as well because carnivorous cuisine is L’Armoire’s forte.
Neither Monsieur Gourmand nor I could resist the pan fried foie gras to start, a fiendish luxury I hadn’t allowed myself for at least six months. It was a guilty pleasure worth waiting for, the meat’s rich flavour in heavenly harmony with the balsamic and raspberry reduction.
My companion continued the foie gras frenzy, ordering pavé de boeuf with jus de foie gras for his main course, served with a flourish of frites poking out of a glass. My ‘tataki de thon rouge’ was equally enticing, the red tuna flesh having been seared for mere seconds to lightly singe the sesame seeds. With sides of oriental spinach, basmati rice, soy sauce and wasabi, my appetite was certainly sated, yet I still felt virtuous enough to allow myself a peek at the dessert menu.
So divine was the chocolate mousse that three days later I am still salivating at the memory. It might even have been the best chocolate mousse I’ve ever had, the deep chocolatey flavour enhanced by the subtle scent and texture of hazelnuts, and tempered by a chunk of mint sorbet. Be warned though, it is denser than most mousses, not to mention enormous, so definitely one for sharing.
Poncey patrons and lazy waiters aside, L’Armoire hasn’t lost sight of the idea that food should be the raison d’être of any restaurant. I look forward to coming back for more meaty, moussey indulgences in 2010.
L’Armoire, Vieille Ville; www.l-armoire.ch; +41 (0)22 311 3724
Our dinner at Brasserie Lipp started on an irritating note when Monsieur Gourmand and I were met with the usual shock and disbelief at not having made a reservation.
Of course, as if by magic, a table was soon conjured up and they managed to squeeze us in. ‘Squeeze’ being the operative word as we were cast out into the middle of the brightly lit brasserie on a table barely big enough for one enthusiastic eater, let alone two.
The comprehensive menu seemed to be full of things I had never heard of and I had a feeling that the apron-wearing waiters would think me a food philistine if I dared enquire about the provenance of a paillard or the content of a quenelle. Consequently, I chose to play it safe with moules frites while Monsieur Gourmand went for a stab in the dark and ordered a choucroute.
As the growing pile of paraphernalia arrived at our tiny table – a mini gas stove, candle-heated hotplates, ladles – we began to wonder what we had let ourselves in for. It turns out that the stove was to warm my moules which, although a bit puny, were served in a tasty creamy sauce and accompanied by first class frites.
The choucroute looked a little heavy and hearty for my tastes but Monsieur Gourmand was delighted with it. Peppercorns embedded among the strands of sauerkraut added a spicy edge to the vinegary vegetables while heightening the fine flavours of a humble yet heavenly frankfurter and another deliciously seasoned sausage packed with pistachios.
It was a shame that Monsieur Gourmand was too stuffed to contemplate a dessert because this is where Brasserie Lipp truly triumphs. I was sorely tempted by the mille-feuille aux marrons and the artisan ice creams but my Sergent Lipp – blood orange sorbet in a glass of campari – proved to be the perfect combination of dessert and digestif. A refreshing finale to a meal only marred by the discomfort of a too-small table.
Brasserie Lipp, Confédération Centre www.brasserielipp.ch
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