Seafood central

Monsieur Gourmand is still a bit fernickety about fish (the bony, head-still-attached variety anyway). Even so, to celebrate a special occasion, he wasn't averse to trying Café du Centre, Geneva's terribly touristy yet highly regarded seafood specialist.

The dazzling display in the window is always a sight to behold: meaty monkfish, rays, oysters, mussels and scallops, draped over ice and usually arranged around a lobster centrepiece. Inside, it is old-fashioned French through and through with mirrored walls, tiled floors, woody banquettes and mature waiters well turned out in white shirts and aprons.

After a glass of champagne and a shared carpaccio starter, I delved into my "marmite du pecheur". Satisfyingly strong, hot and hearty, this soupy seafood concoction was brimming with chunks of scallop, prawn, seabass, cod and shellfish. I can just imagine beardy French fishermen wolfing down a similar meal before a night on the ocean waves.

Monsieur Gourmand stayed faithful to our location with fresh-from-the-lake filets de perches meunière. We've found perches in these parts to be hit and miss, but these good-sized morsels were excellent: not too greasy and accompanied by skinny chips, a tangy tartare sauce and some spinach.

Café du Centre is a classic Geneva institution in every way but one: they actually serve all day. So while the tourists are still traipsing around museums and before the accordion-playing cacophonists descend on Place du Molard for the evening, try it for an afternoon bite.

Café du Centre, 5 Place du Molard, 1204 Geneva
+41 (0)22 311 8586; www.cafeducentre.ch

Tardy truffle

Friendly service, intriguing amuse bouches, sensational seafood and delicate desserts. Not to mention an owner-chef who clearly takes pride in his work and likes to top off his customers' meals with a glass of sweet Santorini dessert wine.

Such were my memories of fantastic fishiness that we simply had to return to Auberge du Soleil for a second visit.

We were served by the same lady as last time - a delightful exception to the grumpy Swiss stereotype - who wasted no time in tempting us with her bowl of lumpy black truffles and platter of fish, which included skate wings, turbot and sole.

Monsieur Gourmand and I both started with creamy, runny poached eggs in a truffly emulsion, followed by fish. I had two slim fillets of lotte while Monsieur Gourmand had sole meunière accompanied by the fluffiest mash potatoes imaginable, also infused with truffle.

The lavender crème brûlée had stuck in my memory from last time and I couldn't resist a second stab of the sugary crust. Its sweetly scented deliciousness didn't disappoint.

What did disappoint (but only a little bit) was the waiting. Due to the Soleil's overwhelming popularity, our waitress and her colleague were so rushed off their feet that we ended up leaving just before midnight, having arrived at 8.30.

We went home exhausted and overindulged from all the wine we had drunk while waiting to eat but that wasn't enough to overpower the lasting impression of fine flavours and sensational smells. 

Auberge du Soleil, Place du Soleil 1, 1183 Bursins
+ 41 (0)21 824 13 44; www.aubergedusoleil.ch