Get stuffed on Sunday

As anyone in Switzerland will know, working on a Sunday is sinful. So you had better not try buying anything or eating out (OK, there are a few places open but I mean a few).

 

For those with such lack of forethought as to have nothing in the fridge, one option is to venture into neighbouring France where they are a little less strict on observing the Sabbath; better still, go to an establishment run by Indians who are so relaxed about religious rules that they even serve beef!

Karishma is not super glitzy but it is rather smart with moody lighting, sumptuous seating and waiters who wear jackets and ties. Not bad for a romantic dinner à deux (Monsieur Gourmand and I were celebrating our wedding anniversary, Sunday or not).

And what a tasty dinner it was. We began with the tenderest tandoori lamb with silky naan bread before moving on to chicken sagwala for me and lamb tikka massala for Monsieur Gourmand. The accompanying dhal was lovely and lumpy rather than the overprocessed lentil smoothies you sometimes find.

The upmarket effect is rather ruined by the laminated ice cream menu of a certain brand for dessert - albeit with some Indian additions of kulfi and coconut fritters - but nobody ever eats dessert after an Indian feast anyway.

 

Suitably stuffed, we went home happy, knowing there is an excellent Indian close by that even serves on a Sunday. 

 

Karishma Lounge, 76 Grande Rue 01220 Divonnes-les-Bains, France

+33 (0)4 50 99 07 07; www.karishma-lounge.com

Off the sauce

There are pros and cons to marathon training. While you tend to get a bit less flabby and feel a marvellous sense of achievement each time you run further than ever before, it tends to entail steering clear of anything that's bad for you.

With the exception of an Easter indulgence (or two), I've been booze-free for nearly four weeks now, despite the best efforts of some to break down my steely resolve. Sitting around at home isn't too bad - just a bit of wine envy watching Monsieur Gourmand tuck into a nice glass of grenache - it's going out that's the killer.

I've found the best solution is to stick to ethnic food, which doesn't really go well with wine anyway. So, fancying an Indian feast one night, we headed to Sultan which we had previously found to be very mediocre.

Seated by the window on faux-wood chairs, sipping our welcome "cocktails" (non-alcoholic, hurrah), Monsieur Gourmand and I decided to avoid curries as we recalled the disappointingly bland saag I had on our last visit.

Instead we chose tangy, tender tandoori chicken and lamb, which arrived still sizzling, and some vegetable sides. Monsieur Gourmand defeated the object of eating vegetables entirely by having them swathed in coconut, pistachio and crème fraîche Korma sauce, while I had Bartha, which are tandoori-grilled aubergines liquidized with green peppers and coriander.

A poppadum here, a bit of naan there and soon enough we were stuffed, pleased to have discovered what Sultan does best. With only green tea to drink, however, now I'm not so sure about my ethnic food and wine theory. 

Sultan, rue de Rive 22,1260 Nyon
+41 (0)22 362 3862; http://www.sultanindian.ch/

Sweet surrender

While I disapprove of stingy establishments that charge for petits fours, the fabulous Rasoi goes to the other extreme. After an otherwise exquisite and surprisingly light meal, I completely overdosed on dessert: an entire mango kulfi – the best I’ve ever tasted – pistachio crème brûlée and melon. (These were served as one dish, in case anyone is thinking I’m a complete glutton.)

As a result, I felt utterly stuffed and very grateful for the walk home. 

We happened to visit during a promotional evening for a local kaftan and sarong seller, but it would take more than a succession of slinky models in floaty frocks to distract me – if not Monsieur Gourmand – from the show stopping degustation menu.

A duo of home-made chutneys and dainty poppadoms were enjoyed with an apéritif before some subtly spicy and herby naan bread arrived. A chilled lentil and tomato soup ensued, before two volaille kebabs – one full flavoured and tangy, the other much milder – were served with a salad of modish micro leaves.


As I savoured the red, orange and green cuisine, the main course of Masala cod and saffron mash brought on the first feelings of fullness. It was delicious nonetheless, the moist, meaty flakes complemented by fresh and firm peas and asparagus.


On this occasion I was weak-willed when faced with delicious-looking creamy kulfi, and powerless to resist the heavenly convergence of pistachio and crème brûlée, (two of my favourite things). If I can stomach the prohibitive prices for a future visit, I vow to allow the sensational savoury flavours to linger longer.


Rasoi, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Quai Turrettini, 1201 Genève
+41 (0)22 909 0006 www.rasoi.ch

Spicy discovery

I thought it would at least take some investigating and some less-than-satisfying saag aloo before stumbling across a good Indian in Geneva. Luckily it looks as though my fears were unfounded.


Bollywood is in a square in Paquis, a surprisingly edgy district of Geneva where ethnic eateries jostle for position and the city's sex trade is evident on every corner. A sort of Swiss Soho, if you like.


The interior of the restaurant itself is charmingly old fashioned with red carpets and gold Ganeshas on display but on balmy evenings the terrace is the place to be. Diners can tuck into poppadums, chutney and a cold beer or two while watching the cool crowd of Paquis passing by.


A lover of tandoori lamb, I thought my usual choice perhaps a little wintry for such a sultry summer night so I went for fish instead. The firm flesh of the salmon came apart in succulent morsels while the tangy tandoori flavour lingered long after the final bite.


The accompanying tarka dhal was pleasingly thick and less liquidised than its British equivalent, the naan bread crisp and brown around the edges - and refreshingly free of butter.  


Though I'm sure the people of Mumbai think nothing of devouring hot and spicy food in searing temperatures, I still associate subcontinental cuisine with winter. When the colder weather arrives this autumn the excitement of skiing and fondues will now be matched by the prospect of further forays into Geneva's spicy restaurant scene - and perhaps a return visit to Bollywood.