Queen of tartes

Nestled in the enclave of Plaine Dranse between the ski resorts of Avoriaz and Châtel, Le Vieux Chalet is a warm, woody retreat, stuffed to the gunnels with sprigs of greenery, cowbells, wicker baskets and bears. Not towering taxidermies of fearsome grizzlies, but a collection of teddy bears that fills every cupboard and renders the staircase impassable.

Then there is BaBeth, the chalet’s foxy, fifty-something proprietor. Rumour has it she doesn’t suffer fools, ruthlessly ejecting indecisive skiers torn between tartiflette and fondue. That said, the warm-hearted hostess has also been known to break out the champagne after hearing of a patron's proposal on the piste.

Beware of asking BaBeth about herself; without hesitation she will foist upon you a laminated magazine article detailing the trials and tribulations of her life, before thrusting forth her newly published book, which seems to follow a similar theme. Then comes the photo album, a lengthy catalogue of BaBeth’s snow-filled frolics and provocative poses, before visitors can finally think about food.

The menu of mountain fare complements the alpine interior where tables are tucked away in cosy nooks, scattered with red and green cushions. Washed down with some robust red wine, platters of viandes sechées can be followed by a tasty thin-crust pizza or tartiflette – a hot and hearty Savoyard speciality of potatoes, onions and reblochon cheese.

Le Vieux Chalet is almost as well known for its spectacular tartes as for its extrovert owner and a chunky wedge of the bilberry or Tatin varieties makes for a fruity conclusion to a mountain meal. All that’s left is for BaBeth to draw one of her signature black hearts on your cheek before you hit the slopes… as if you needed anything to remember her by.

Le Vieux Chalet, 74390 Châtel, France
+33 (0)450 73 38 77; www.vieuxchalet.com