Trusty bistrot

It's the second time I've been to L'Esquisse and it's the second time I can't think of anything to write about it. Not because it was bad, quite the opposite in fact. It's very good. Not rapture-rousingly, astoundingly good, but a reliable neighbourhood bistrot serving tasty French cuisine against a backdrop of funky artwork.

Again we were seated in the lower half of the restaurant by the drafty door (note to self: request a table at the other end next time) before a fast-talking Frenchman guided us through the blackboard of wines. Of course he subtly suggested some of the pricier vintages, but we found the restaurant's own label house red was more than a match for our main course. 

This second visit failed to trump the first when I had a juicy veal burger (they also do beef, chicken and tuna), but it did involve another hunk of tender meat: a chunky côte de boeuf served on a wooden slab with a sharp knife protruding from within. Rare and tasty, there was little need for the sauce on the side, while chips might have been preferable to the unmemorable potatoes. I can't quite remember if they were dauphinoise. If so, I've had better.

In anticipation of the substantial main course, I had chosen a dainty salade verte to start, which was excellent: firm and fresh with an addictively aromatic walnut dressing. Monsieur Gourmand wasn't so complimentary about his (inexplicably orange) courgette soup which was, unsurprisingly, rather bland.

As we walked home, satisfied yet unexcited by our dinner, I resolved to shake things up a bit next time. Maybe I'll try some fish. 

7 rue du Lac, 1207 Geneva
+41 (0)22 786 5044; lesquisse.com