Far East of Eden

Much as I like going to Chamonix, driving there is a bit nervy. It was on this very journey that Monsieur Gourmand and I slammed into a crash barrier before sliding into a stationary car (helpfully stopped in the middle of a snowy road, just around a bend) one December day in 2008. After an hour on edge recalling this scary scenario, it's quite a relief to see the Hotel Eden emerge from the darkness, a shimmering beacon of warmth, bedecked by fairy lights.

While the rooms are functional and pleasantly presented, it is the food for which Hotel Eden is better known. After perusing the menu in front of the fire in the bar with a glass or two of champagne, the conservatory dining room awaits where the walls display the resident photographer's latest Alpine-themed exhibition.

The menu is essentially French - think steak, lamb and sea bass fillets - but many dishes are spiced up with an Asian twist that captures the famed umami essence of oriental cooking. The St Jacques I had on my last visit were livened up by a tasty Teriyaki sauce that complemented the succulent scallops, while Monsieur Gourmand had goat's cheese samosa, the heaviness of the cheese eased by sweet beetroot and a zingy apple salad.

Since my last Eden experience I have resolved to order future steaks seignant rather than bleu as it was a little too rare for my liking on this occasion, but the quality of the meat couldn't be faulted. It's always best to stick to what a place does best and, judging by the number of eastern options, my note-to-self for next time is to go for something with soy, spices or sesame.

A couple of bottles of wine later, the bar beckons where skiers from Finland, Ukraine, and of course the UK, congregate for cognacs and limoncellos late into the night.

Hotel Eden Chamonix, 35 route des Gaudenays,
74400 Les Praz de Chamonix, France
+33 (0)450 531843; http://www.hoteleden-chamonix.com