Monday 11 March 2013

Tardy truffle

Friendly service, intriguing amuse bouches, sensational seafood and delicate desserts. Not to mention an owner-chef who clearly takes pride in his work and likes to top off his customers' meals with a glass of sweet Santorini dessert wine.

Such were my memories of fantastic fishiness that we simply had to return to Auberge du Soleil for a second visit.

We were served by the same lady as last time - a delightful exception to the grumpy Swiss stereotype - who wasted no time in tempting us with her bowl of lumpy black truffles and platter of fish, which included skate wings, turbot and sole.

Monsieur Gourmand and I both started with creamy, runny poached eggs in a truffly emulsion, followed by fish. I had two slim fillets of lotte while Monsieur Gourmand had sole meunière accompanied by the fluffiest mash potatoes imaginable, also infused with truffle.

The lavender crème brûlée had stuck in my memory from last time and I couldn't resist a second stab of the sugary crust. Its sweetly scented deliciousness didn't disappoint.

What did disappoint (but only a little bit) was the waiting. Due to the Soleil's overwhelming popularity, our waitress and her colleague were so rushed off their feet that we ended up leaving just before midnight, having arrived at 8.30.

We went home exhausted and overindulged from all the wine we had drunk while waiting to eat but that wasn't enough to overpower the lasting impression of fine flavours and sensational smells. 

Auberge du Soleil, Place du Soleil 1, 1183 Bursins
+ 41 (0)21 824 13 44; www.aubergedusoleil.ch

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