Greek Helvetique

In August Monsieur Gourmand and I went to Corfu. Everything was as it should be - sun-filled days spent swimming and snorkelling followed by balmy evenings guzzling retsina and tucking into grilled Greek delights - except this time something wasn't quite right.

The fish wasn't especially meaty or abundant, the grilled octopus tasted tinned at times and, on more than one occasion, the squid had a bitter, silvery paste inside that I can only assume was the remnants of entrails.    

Food being one of the key factors in my ultimate enjoyment of any holiday, I left Corfu feeling a little shortchanged. Of course, Switzerland is the last place one should go when feeling shortchanged but a month after my return to Geneva I enjoyed a Greek meal good enough to banish my holiday disappointment.

Emilios near Plainpalais offers a fine choice of healthy mezze, from fava beans and feta to tzatziki and taramosalata, as well as an excellent selection of meaty moussakas and comforting kleftikos. But on a pleasantly warm September night, nothing was going to tear me away from some grilled, succulent seafood.  

My substantial squid came whole, chargrilled and doused in herby lemon. Monsieur Gourmand was also most impressed with his two fat tentacles of octopus (to my great relief as I have come to dread his frustration after each failed attempt to cook it himself).

Emilios is only let down by its décor, which is more bingo hall than beachside taverna. Bright lights extinguish any hint of romance, the plain, practical furniture would be more at home in a motorway diner and a conspicuous lack of greenery makes the Mediterranean feel far, far away.  

Nevertheless, the food was good quality and we stuffed ourselves enough to be grateful for the walk home.