Sunday 7 October 2012

Chinese reserve

Much like the cars outside and the ladies of the night inside, the food at Tse Fung, La Reserve's Chinese restaurant, is exotic, ravishing and expensive.

All that's lacking is a little imagination. The menu sticks to a standard formula with classics including sesame prawn toast and spring rolls, crispy duck with hoi sin sauce, followed by chicken, seafood or beef with cashew, Szechuan and sweet and sour sauces. All are expertly prepared and superbly served by a team of charming staff. 

In pricier places, I like them to show you what they do best so we ordered one of the four degustation menus, all named after appropriately expensive gemstones.

Our Emerald option started with some five spice squid, unfortunately served at the same time as the duck roll and steamed dumplings - at the most chichi Chinese in town I would have expected it to have been a bit more drawn out. None of these starters stick in the memory and I've definitely had better dumplings in Paquis.

Moving on to the mains, we were presented with caramelised beef, chicken in black bean sauce and spicy sole fillets. Of these, the fish was the stand-out dish: delicate and flavoursome without being overpowered by the spice.

Something sweet from the dessert menu - chocolate spring rolls perhaps - would have made a fiendish finale but we were both quite stuffed by this point. Besides, they were generous with the petits fours that came with Monsieur Gourmand's espresso.  

With sumptuous surroundings, lavish service and long-legged clientele, Tse Fung is a favourite for special occasions but disappointingly unextraordinary.

Le Tse Fung, La Rserve, 301 route de Lausanne, 1293 Bellevue
+41 (0)22 959 5959; www.lareserve.ch

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