Sunday 21 October 2012

Good imitation

How much would a small diner in the Geneva suburbs have to pay Warner Bros. to use the image of one of their cartoon characters, Monsieur Gourmand and I pondered as we chomped into our tasty burgers at Road Runner. Too much, it would seem, as they have created their very own cartoon bird to sit alongside the red neon logo, which, to an untrained eye, looks just the same.

The same philosophy applies to the food: the first bite reveals a juiciness that could be a real, genuine, American burger. It's flavoursome, it comes in a nice sesame bun, there are gherkins and onions, fries on the side and even coleslaw.


Diners can choose from such tempting options as the Texan (cheese and bacon), Mexican (with chilli and nachos), French (with tomato and herbs) or just keep it simple with cheese. There's no New York style low-carb burger wrapped in a lettuce leaf, but I doubt this would catch on in bread-loving Switzerland where everyone is effortlessly thin despite a diet of cheese and chocolate.

The key difference between the burgers here and those at a Stateside burger joint is the size. Monsieur Gourmand was still peckish after his Texan so ate my remaining fries, while I allowed myself a chocolate Mr Whippee after my delicious but not very filling cheese burger. 

But big doesn't necessarily mean good and this is the best burger I've had in Geneva (apart from L'Armoire which no longer exists) and deserves to have survived 40 years. That's got to be nearly as long as the Road Runner himself?

Road Runner, 63 route de Chene, 1208 Geneve
+41 (0)22 735 6420; www.roadrunner-restaurant.ch

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