Typically Italian, aesthetics are important at Olio Design. The stone arches are reminiscent of a Roman palazzo, exquisite tableware abounds and of course the food is a feast for the eyes: looking at my anchovy salad was like leaning over a river bank and peering into the fast flowing water, a shoal of silvery fish swimming amid a colourful mesh of green lettuce and reddish radishes.
Alas, it looked much better than it tasted - the anchovies were raw.
Now, I'm quite partial to a bit of ceviche or sushi, but without the strong flavour of lemon or wasabi I couldn't overpower the slimy, slippery texture which made me think of eels, and eels give me the creeps. Thank goodness for the Gavi with which I washed it down.
Why did I force myself to eat something I didn't like, you may ask. Well, partly because it cost an outrageous 30CHF which I didn't want to waste, and partly because I felt bad about offending the chef who had created the dish especially (I had chosen a hot anchovy starter with burrata but he thought I might like something lighter). Maybe the burrata had gone off.
Whereas Monsieur Gourmand had enjoyed a peculiar but pleasing appetiser of asparagus soup and squid, it was soon his turn to taste disappointment with a plate of unexciting orecchiette with fresh mushrooms. My deliciously al dente linguine with chunky frutti di mare, however, were the perfect antidote to my hunger and I wolfed them down with abandon.
My meal continued on a yummy note - a ball of pannacotta with firm, fresh raspberries and strawberries. Limoncello on the house by way of apology for meddling with my meal was a welcome sweetener, but didn't change the fact that Olio Design is not outstanding enough to justify the high prices.
Olio Design, 59 rue du Rhone, 1204 Geneva
+41 (0)22 310 1555; oliodesignrestaurant.com
Now, I'm quite partial to a bit of ceviche or sushi, but without the strong flavour of lemon or wasabi I couldn't overpower the slimy, slippery texture which made me think of eels, and eels give me the creeps. Thank goodness for the Gavi with which I washed it down.
Why did I force myself to eat something I didn't like, you may ask. Well, partly because it cost an outrageous 30CHF which I didn't want to waste, and partly because I felt bad about offending the chef who had created the dish especially (I had chosen a hot anchovy starter with burrata but he thought I might like something lighter). Maybe the burrata had gone off.
Whereas Monsieur Gourmand had enjoyed a peculiar but pleasing appetiser of asparagus soup and squid, it was soon his turn to taste disappointment with a plate of unexciting orecchiette with fresh mushrooms. My deliciously al dente linguine with chunky frutti di mare, however, were the perfect antidote to my hunger and I wolfed them down with abandon.
My meal continued on a yummy note - a ball of pannacotta with firm, fresh raspberries and strawberries. Limoncello on the house by way of apology for meddling with my meal was a welcome sweetener, but didn't change the fact that Olio Design is not outstanding enough to justify the high prices.
Olio Design, 59 rue du Rhone, 1204 Geneva
+41 (0)22 310 1555; oliodesignrestaurant.com
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