Sizzling feast

On a cold and rainy night, it was quite a relief to enter the warm woody surroundings of the Taverne du Valais with its traditional table cloths and the smoky smell of sizzling meat (even with extractors over each table, the charbonnade experience will leave you smelling like a lumberjack).

Of course, such an irresistible aroma has the side effect of intensifying hunger; poor Monsieur Gourmand was so ravenous that he resorted to sampling the collection of condiments that sat temptingly on the table. 

I tried to take his mind off his growling stomach by reading from the menu the enchanting tale of the restaurant's beginnings: once upon a time (1967, in fact) Frau Schmidt ventured down from the Valais to give the Genevois a taste of her mountain fondue. Alas, demand dried up when spring came around so she fed them traditional barbecued mountain meat instead. And I, for one, am glad that she did.

After a tasty French-style salad and some crusty brown bread, a platter of tender, lean beef arrived (we opted for beef only but bird-heavy mixes of chicken, turkey and duck are also available). After only a minute on the charbonnade the thinly sliced morsels are cooked, complete with criss cross grill pattern, ready to be savoured alone or with a dollop of Dijon, a bit of bearnaise or even chilli (for an Asian twist).

Far from being a bad thing, the distance from the city centre allows for an unpretentious atmosphere and down-to-earth service, making this an ideal destination for feasting with friends.

 La Taverne du Valais, 4 chemin des Sellières,
1219 Aïre - Le Lignon, Geneva
+41 (0)22 796 2323; taverneduvalais.ch